Every region of India has its own specialty of sweet, spiced dessert: petha, a boiled pumpkin dessert from Agra; daulat ki chaat made from the foam of churned milk and only available in Delhi in the winter; rosogollas, Bengali milk-based balls soaked in syrup; gajar ki halwa, made from shredded carrots and popular in the north; kheer rice pudding; pistachio or saffron-flavoured kulfi, India’s answer to gelato; laddus, made from chickpea flour, and a common offering left for Hindu gods; jalebis, deep-fried dough squiggles soaked in syrup…